Shibori kimono. Taisho
period (1912-1926), Japan. The Kimono
Gallery. A silk shibori kimono featuring large ‘yabane’ (arrow-feather) motifs
of shibori with silk and metallic thread embroidery highlights. This kimono is
patterned entirely in fine shibori (tie-die). The arrow feather (yabane) motif
first became fashionable in Japan as early as the Heian era – initially with
martial connotations – and during the Edo era it was often used on kimono for
ladies in waiting. The motif was very popular on schoolgirl and teacher kasuri
(ikat) kimonos of the mid to late Meiji period. During the Taisho and early
Showa periods the yabane was a popular woman’s kimono motif, created via
shibori, stenciling, or yuzen-dyeing. The arrow-feather motifs were most often
vertical, but sometimes created at an angle, as in this example. The Yabane pattern,
like most geometric motifs, is all-season, however, it has an auspicious
association with weddings – like an arrow shot from a bow a bride does not return
to her parents’ house. This kimono would have been very expensive to create -
the shibori work itself would have taken a few months to complete. The white
silk embroidery on the two arrow-feather motifs situated on lower left of the
kimono is very visible from a distance, and provides a tasteful change from the
other plainer motifs. The motifs are randomly scattered throughout the kimono
'canvas’, resulting in a casual relaxed atmosphere. The “speckled”
appearance of the yellow background color is an accomplished effect: many
thousands of tie-dye knots were once placed here to be able to achieve the
slightly puckered yellow dots on black background speckled look.